Is dry cutting really better for curly hair?
I sometimes get asked by clients with curly hair if I can cut their hair dry.
I understand why they ask. Many people believe that curly hair should always be cut dry, because you can see how the curls naturally sit.
And yes, I agree that dry cutting has some advantages.
But personally, I prefer cutting curly hair wet.
Let me explain why.
Curly hair changes depending on the weather
One of the biggest challenges with curly hair is that the curls don’t always behave the same way.
On a humid day, your curls might become tighter, shorter or frizzier. On a dry day, they might look completely different.
Even after washing and drying your hair, the curls may not sit in exactly the same position every time.
This is one of the reasons why I don’t like relying only on the shape of dry curls when cutting hair.
What looks even today might not look even tomorrow.
How I approach a curly haircut
Before I start cutting, I always check the hair in its natural, dry condition during the consultation.
I look at the client’s face shape, shoulder width, height and overall body proportions.
I also consider where the hair length should sit to create the best balance for that person.
Everyone is different, so I don’t believe the same haircut will suit everyone.
Once I have a clear picture of the shape and length I want to create, I keep that image in my mind throughout the haircut.
Then I wet the hair and start cutting.
Why I prefer wet cutting
When the hair is wet, I can control the hair more easily.
I can check the length, section the hair properly and see the balance of the haircut.
I can also use consistent tension when cutting, which helps me create a more accurate shape.
Of course, curly hair shrinks when it dries. And different parts of the hair can shrink differently.
That’s something I always need to consider.
But for me, wet cutting gives me a better starting point to create a balanced haircut.
The final check and styling
After cutting, I check the hair again in its dry condition.
I look at how the curls naturally fall and check for any uneven areas or differences in length.
If necessary, I make small adjustments to get the balance right.
Then I use some gel or hair oil, depending on the hair type and the finish we want.
I usually use a diffuser to dry and style the hair gently, without disturbing the natural curl pattern.
I want the curls to look natural, not forced into a shape they don’t want to be.
So, in a way, I use both wet and dry cutting techniques.
I just prefer to create the main shape while the hair is wet, then finish the details when it’s dry.
Every hairdresser has their own approach
I’m not saying dry cutting is wrong.
There are many excellent hairdressers who specialise in dry cutting, and they get beautiful results.
I respect their techniques.
But after many years of working with different hair types, I’ve found that wet cutting followed by a dry check works best for me.
For me, it’s not about following a particular cutting trend.
It’s about understanding the hair, looking at the person as a whole, and giving my clients a haircut that works in their everyday life.
At the end of the day, I don’t think the most important question is whether curly hair should be cut wet or dry.
The important thing is how well your hairdresser understands your curls.
Yasu Tanaka
t.a Hairworks | Sapporo, Japan